Sunset had been an hour or so ago but it was still very much the 16th of February. Under a fresh starry night sky Inese thought it’d be good time to go grab some dinner at one of the local eateries as we’d spent all afternoon sightseeing in Vecrīga the honest fashion, hopping site to site on foot.
The eatery chosen was an inviting looking traditional Latvian one and if my poor memory serves, was called Dzirnavas owned by the Lido group situated on Dzirnavu Iela. Once inside the old mill house themed restaurant there sprawled a huge buffet which was literally bewildering… Pork and potato dishes dominated but there were plenty other things such as chicken, fish, dumplings, soups, vegetables, salads, fruit, cake, jelly and so on. One could well do with a bib just walking around looking at what was on offer. :D
After quite a bit of deliberation, I settled with some potato pancakes (think sautéed shredded potatoes), some chicken shashlik (née sheesh kebab) and salad in the form of mixed peppers and cucumber. I was curious to try a bit of everything but even if I’d have taken microscopic portion of each, there was so much food laid out I’d still probably have gone to the till with two heaped plates worth.
Oddly, this brought back memories of eating out with my folks at hotels which served Cantonese & European buffets when we were still living in Hong Kong. Buffets were a bit of a new thing for the local Chinese to go and experience and being completely oblivious to Western dining etiquette and more often than not heaped their plates to near breaking point with little regard that king prawns, roast beef with gravy, oysters with fresh lemon, fruit trifle with custard and Swiss chocolate gateaux probably don’t go all that well together.
So with that flash back in mind, I think my decision to be a bit more reserved so as to not make a similar faux pas was a wise one. Inese also opted for a hearty serving of potato pancakes but topped her serving with a generous lashing of mushrooms in a creamy sauce… yummy! Onward to the till we went and between the two of us, dinner each with one glass of fresh orange juice for me and one glass of Kvass for Inese, the final total was under 3 Ls. Bonza!
We grabbed a table for two near the windows and tucked into our food and drink. Apparently, this restaurant we were eating in is especially popular with the locals in Rīga. So much so that sometimes, it’s not unusual to have people with their food waiting at your table for you to finish so they can occupy the seats and gobble everything down so next in line could have a seat. Thankfully, tonight wasn’t like this and we were able to eat at a more leisurely pace and not risk chronic indigestion.
With bellies filled and feeling rather content, there was little bit of time to burn before Inese had to disappear off for her lectures which was to start at 7:30 p.m., so Inese and I headed out of the restaurant for a little walk around the city. Through the streets we weaved but as we walked a place with modern white vaulted walkways with white fairy lights illuminating the area so that it literally had a picture postcard feel, I asked Inese as to where we were. She piped up that the area we were walking through was called Berga Bazārs and is an upmarket shopping area of Rīga. Certainly had its share of designer clothes stores and as we were about to exit and join back on Marijas Iela passed a large Italian restaurant by the name of Fellini. Though the menu looked very inviting, its Londonesque prices meant even during busy times I doubt punters would be rolling through the door, though I may be wrong. :D
As we crossed the junction on Marijas Iela, Inese pointed towards Vērmanes Dārzs up Elizabetes Iela at a tiny wooden tea house called Apsara where we were to meet later in the evening at 9 p.m. give or take a bit once her lectures had finished. So with that, I carried on down Marijas Iela towards Centrālā Stacija as I could see the clock tower at Stacijas Laukums where at the top is the Neo cocktail bar myself and Inese went to the night before.
I decided I could spend some time in the warmth at the two shopping centres Origo and Stockmann as it had been 0°C pretty much all the time I’ve been in Latvia and once the Daystar had gone, things do get a touch nippier. I did have about one and a half hours to spend wondering in a city I’m not familiar with at all after all and didn’t really fancy getting pneumonia quite so soon into my trip.
Origo was the first to be visited and once inside I was greeted with Rimi where we had done some shopping for foodstuffs the night before but I was keen to explore what I hadn’t seen in this complex yet. Near Rimi was a large sushi restaurant which pretty much took up as much ground floor space as the supermarket. Plenty of people were eating and socialising there though I have to say it must be rather surreal as the restaurant was quite like a goldfish bowl as it is completely surrounded by glass, so those eating could see the shoppers going by and vice versa.
It’s of little surprise that most of the stores in Origo dealt with women’s fashion but amongst the four floors of the shopping centre there were also shops with children’s toys, electronics, men’s wear, bathroom accessories and other things I didn’t even know existed. I resisted the temptation to do empty my wallet on impulse purchases, though did see a rather nice IBM, Intel Centrino™ based laptop with a pretty solid specification going for a fair bit less than it would do in good old rip-off Blighty. Made very sure my “Flexible Friend” stayed in my wallet and not brandished about willy-nilly, however much of a bargain it seemed. But, I was keeping an eye out for a universal travel adaptor as silly old me forgot to bring one from home which makes using electrical goods with a British 13 amp plug rather difficult, such as the charger for my digital camera… Bleh!
With Origo well scouted, I braved the cold crossing Stacijas Laukums and headed into the recentish addition to Rīga, Finland’s well renowned department store that is Stockmann. On entering the bottom floor, one is now in Rīga’s largest cosmetics shop and towards the back is a large supermarket with more products than one could shake a stick. Going up the escalators to the first floor, there sprawled a very large designer men’s wear department. Have to say on looking at the price tags on various random garments, my left eyebrow got a fair bit of exercise… The floor above was women’s wear, so quietly moved on to the top floor which was kitchenware and electrical goods, from washing machines through to plasma television panels. How very swank. :D
My hunt for the elusive universal travel adaptor proved rather fruitless as though various models were in stock, they were obviously European centric and adapted those appliances to everything else… Guess I should be looking for an über universal travel adaptor or something?
With just under and hour or keeping myself occupied, I figured I’d go back to Centrālā Stacija itself. The Centrālā Stacija connects both shopping centres and sure enough there were covered avenues inside where lots of little stalls sold a whole host of things such as local snack food, clothing items, accessories for your mobile phone, greeting cards, flowers, et cetera.
Pondering where else I could try and get thoroughly lost in, it dawned on me perhaps I should see if I could actually make my way to the Apsara tea house where I was due to meet Inese in just over half an hours time. So out I went onto Stacijas Laukums and crossed Satekles Iela then walked up Marijas Iela. It’s just a short 200m before I arrived at the junction where Elizabetes Iela crosses it. To the left looking towards Vērmanes Dārzs I could see the quaint little wooden hut in the distance.
I carried on up Marijas Iela which soon gave way to Aleksandra Čaka Iela. Now it was here that I realised I still hadn’t quite got my head round the fact the cars are on the right hand side of the road so when crossings streets, one should in fact be looking left, not right. I figured I’d play it safe and on every road crossing would look both ways even though it took a bit more time and effort. Who knows… after all one of the local drivers might find it highly amusing to drive like a Brit on the roads of Rīga? This chiral conundrum was made worse by the lack of sole to pavement friction given the rather icy conditions which would have made swift footwork needed to avoid oncoming traffic pretty much impossible. Certainly didn’t fancy being another statistic and getting a free ride in an ambulance quite so soon, so I kept my eyes and ears peeled.
From Aleksandra Čaka Iela I made a left up Matīsa Iela then back towards Rīga City centre along Brīvības Bulvāris. The total distance walked probably amounted to just under 3km and managed to pop into a few stores along the way but kept myself to just windows shopping.
By 9:15 p.m., I had met back up with Inese and into the little Apsara wooden tea house we went. Have to say the place looked very inviting and cosy inside with many, many varieties of tea on offer plus cakes and other sweets. The drawback from all this choice was the fact I had an “Attack of the Stupids™” and struggled in answering basic questions such as “what would I like to have?”. After a bit of head scratching and looking towards Inese for guidance, I chose to have the same as what she was drinking, which if memory serves was red tea with blackcurrant? I also quite fancied one of the sweets they had on display and looked quite like a chocolate log with fruit and jelly bits.
Inese and I grabbed a free table with myself sitting on a comfy bench which runs all along one side of the interior wall where the window looks out over Elizabetes Iela. The blackcurrant tea was quite tart, though very refreshing and my sweet proved to be rather chocolate free, not that it was a bad thing as it was quite like a Christmas pudding and the jelly bits had that delicate and subtle rose water taste to it. Worked out quite well as the tart tea would certainly have not gone that well with anything chocolately…
It was quite surprising how quickly time goes when indulges with idle chit-chat but even Einstein had noticed this phenomenon: When a man sits with a pretty girl for an hour, it seems like a minute. But let him sit on a hot stove for a minute and it’s longer than any hour. That’s relativity.
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As we chatted, Inese double checked with me of our proposed plans for tomorrow’s activities as she did have in mind that we’d go The Latvijas Etnogrāfiskais Brīvdabas Muzejs but had reservations that I may have found it of no interest at all as it’s just “lots of little wooden huts”. Have to say describing anything like that was underselling it a bit but did manage to convince her (though only just) that I would like to go. Not going to find out if I enjoy or dislike something by avoiding it after all.
The tea house’s 10 p.m. closing time was now looming so we finished our remaining tea and walked to a nearby tram stop and get the tram back home and get a good nights sleep to be ready for tomorrow’s adventure! :D